The Truth About Sizing: Why Measurements Matter More Than Size Labels
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If you've ever felt frustrated trying to navigate sizing across different brands, you're not alone. One brand's size 10 is another's size 14, and what fits perfectly in one dress leaves you struggling with the zip in another. It's enough to make anyone want to give up on online shopping altogether—especially when you find your dream dress but can't figure out which size to order.
But here's the truth that might surprise you: the problem isn't you, and it's not entirely the brands either. The reality of sizing in fashion is far more complex than most people realise, and understanding why can actually help you shop smarter and find better-fitting clothes.
Why Sizing Is So Inconsistent (And Why It's Not Going Away)
Before we dive into solutions, it's important to understand why sizing varies so dramatically between brands. The answer isn't simple negligence or poor planning—it's actually rooted in the beautiful diversity of human bodies.
The Impossible Task: Designing for Everyone
Here's the challenge brands face: every single person has a unique body shape, height, and proportions. Two people who are both 165cm tall and wear a size 12 might have completely different measurements. One might have a longer torso and shorter legs, while the other has the opposite. One might carry weight in their hips, another in their bust. One might have broad shoulders, another narrow.
When a brand creates a size 12, they're essentially creating a dress for an 'average' size 12 body based on their target customer. But there's no such thing as a truly average body—we're all wonderfully different. This means that even with the best intentions, no single size 12 will fit every size 12 body perfectly.
Different Design Philosophies
Brands also design with different fit philosophies in mind:
- Some design for petite frames: If a brand's core customers tend to be shorter or more petite, their sizing will reflect that, even if they use standard size numbers.
- Others cater to taller or curvier body types: These brands might use the same size labels but with completely different measurements.
- Fit preferences vary: Some brands design for a relaxed, flowing fit, while others prefer a more tailored, body-conscious silhouette. This affects how sizes translate across different styles.
- International influences: Australian brands might size differently than European or American brands, even when converting to AU sizing, because they're designing for different body types prevalent in different regions.
The Height Factor
Height is one of the most overlooked aspects of sizing frustration. A dress designed for someone 170cm tall will hit completely differently on someone who's 155cm or 180cm. The waistline might sit too high or too low, the hem might drag or look too short, and the proportions can feel completely off—even if the bust, waist, and hip measurements are technically correct.
Most brands design for a specific height range (usually around 165-170cm), which means taller and shorter customers often struggle with fit, regardless of their size label.
Why Size Labels Fail Us
The fundamental problem with size labels—whether they're numbered (8, 10, 12) or lettered (S, M, L)—is that they're trying to reduce the beautiful complexity of human bodies into a single number or letter. It's an oversimplification that simply can't account for individual variation.
Add to this the issue of 'vanity sizing' (where brands deliberately label garments with smaller sizes to make customers feel good) and the lack of any industry-wide sizing standards, and you have a recipe for confusion and frustration.
A size 12 in one brand might have a 95cm bust, while a size 12 in another brand has a 100cm bust. Both are called 'size 12,' but they'll fit very different bodies. This is why you might be a consistent size 10 in one brand but find yourself needing a 12 or even 14 in another—and it says absolutely nothing about your body.
The Solution: Measurements Are Your Best Friend
Here's the good news: there's a way to cut through the sizing chaos, and it's simpler than you might think. Ignore the size label and focus on the actual measurements.
While size labels are arbitrary and inconsistent, measurements are universal. A 95cm bust is a 95cm bust, regardless of whether it's labelled a size 10 or a size 14. When you shop based on measurements rather than size labels, you take control of the fit.
How to Use Dress Measurements Effectively
Step 1: Know Your Measurements
Take accurate measurements of your:
- Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape parallel to the floor
- Waist: Measure around your natural waistline (usually the narrowest part of your torso)
- Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips and bottom
- Height: Know your height, as this affects how dresses will sit on your frame
Pro tip: Wear the undergarments you'd typically wear with a dress when measuring, and don't pull the tape too tight—you want to be able to breathe and move comfortably!
Step 2: Check the Garment Measurements, Not Just the Size Chart
Many brands provide detailed garment measurements for each size. These tell you the actual dimensions of the dress itself. Look for measurements like:
- Bust width (often given as 'half chest' which you double)
- Waist width
- Hip width
- Length from shoulder to hem
- Sleeve length
Compare these garment measurements to your body measurements, keeping in mind that you'll need some ease (extra room) for comfort and movement. How much ease depends on the style—a fitted dress might have 2-5cm of ease, while a relaxed style might have 10-15cm or more.
Step 3: Measure a Dress You Already Own
This is the secret weapon many people don't know about. Find a dress in your wardrobe that fits you well in a similar style to what you're shopping for. Lay it flat and measure:
- Bust (armpit to armpit, then double it)
- Waist (side to side at the narrowest point, then double it)
- Hips (at the widest point, then double it)
- Total length
Now compare these measurements to the garment measurements of the dress you want to buy. If they're similar, you've found your size—regardless of what the label says.
Step 4: Consider the Fabric and Style
Measurements are crucial, but fabric matters too:
- Stretchy fabrics (jersey, knits, fabrics with elastane) are more forgiving and can accommodate a wider range of measurements
- Woven fabrics (cotton, linen, silk) have little to no stretch, so measurements need to be more precise
- Structured styles (fitted bodices, tailored waists) require closer attention to measurements
- Flowing styles (A-line, empire waist, shift dresses) are more flexible
What to Do When Your Dream Dress Doesn't Fit
Even with careful measurement checking, sometimes you fall in love with a dress that just doesn't come in measurements that work for your body. Here's what you can do:
1. Contact the Brand
Don't hesitate to reach out and ask:
- For specific measurements if they're not listed online
- For advice on which size might work best for your measurements
- If they're planning to expand their size range
Many smaller brands are incredibly helpful and want you to find the right fit. We certainly do!
2. Consider Alterations
If you're close to the measurements but not quite there, professional alterations can bridge the gap. A skilled tailor can:
- Take in or let out seams (usually easier to take in than let out)
- Adjust length
- Modify straps or shoulders
- Add darts for better shaping
If it's truly your dream dress, the cost of alterations might be worth the investment for a perfect fit.
3. Size Up When in Doubt
If you're between sizes based on measurements, it's almost always better to size up. It's much easier to take a dress in than to let it out, and you'll be more comfortable in a slightly looser fit than one that's too tight.
4. Look for Adjustable Features
Dresses with adjustable elements can accommodate a wider range of measurements:
- Tie waists or belts
- Adjustable straps
- Wrap styles
- Smocking or elastic panels
- Lace-up backs
A Note to Fellow Shoppers: Be Patient with Brands
As frustrating as sizing can be, it's worth understanding that brands—especially smaller, independent ones—face real challenges in catering to everyone. Creating multiple size ranges is expensive and complex.
Many brands are working hard to expand their size ranges and improve their fit, but it takes time and resources. The best thing we can do as customers is provide constructive feedback about measurements and fit, support brands that are making efforts toward inclusivity, and be patient as the industry evolves.
The Bottom Line
Sizing frustration is real, valid, and experienced by almost everyone who shops for clothes. But by shifting your focus from size labels to actual measurements, you can take control of your shopping experience and find better-fitting clothes across any brand.
Remember:
- Size labels are arbitrary—measurements are facts
- Your body isn't wrong; the sizing system is just imperfect
- Brands aren't trying to frustrate you; they're navigating the impossible task of designing for infinite body diversity
- Measurements are your secret weapon for finding the perfect fit
- When in doubt, reach out—most brands genuinely want to help you find your size
Your dream dress is out there, and with the right measurements in hand, you'll find it. Don't let an arbitrary size label stand between you and something you love. Focus on the numbers that matter—the actual measurements—and you'll shop with confidence, no matter which brand you're browsing.
Happy shopping, and remember: you are not a size. You are a unique combination of measurements that deserves to be dressed beautifully.